Swatch for Pattern 7 in Let's Knit 12

This weekend I swatched for pattern 7 in Let's Knit 12. The gauge calls for:

27 stitches x 31 rows = 10 x 10 cm in pattern A

And I got:
30 stitches x 29 rows = 10 x 10 cm in pattern A (unstretched and unblocked)

Verdict: This is a very pretty pattern but it is unlikely I could do a whole sweater with twisted stitches (ktbl) and ptbl for an entire sweater. I think my hands would likely fall off before I completed the sweater. That said, perhaps someone else would like to knit the sweater and so I included the photo of my swatch for chart A above. The pattern as knit is quite stretchy but I am not a big fan of the large yarn overs on a sweater, maybe there is a trick to make them looks smaller. I used size 4mm (US 6) needles with Lana Grossa Merino 2000 Superfein in color 510. This is a very light sport weight yarn and I think the needle size is a bit large for it. In any case, this was a very fun swatch to knit with the wrong side being charted out as well; I did not get bored!

Next I will swatch for Pattern 8 (a vest) and Pattern 10 (a cardigan) in the same Let's Knit 12. In the magazine they are both knit up in black but I will probably swatch in a lighter color.

Scarf Completed

I have been very busy over the last two weeks working on this scarf for my partner in the International Scarf Exchange 5. The scarf is from Let's Knit Series 3. The ISBN number is 4529042758. I bought my copy from The Needle Arts Book Shop. I am not affiliated with this website in any way. I am just a satisfied customer. I don't think I could have done the scarf without everyones help from the KnittingInJapan Yahoo group. Silvia did an earlier post with the mechanics of the scarf.




The scarf is worked IN ONE PIECE from beginning to end. I have never seen anything constructed this way. It's pure genius if you ask me. I did change a few things when I did the last section and edging. The edging is a crochet edging where you chain 7, single crochet in the next stitch, skip the next stitch, chain 7 etc. I did two rounds of the edging instead of 1, doing the single crochets in the stitch that was skipped the first time around. Also instead of keeping the entire scarf stitches live after finishing chart D I chose to cast off each D section and single crochet around to the next section where you would pick up the stitches to work another D section. For me, this was much easier than working it with all the stitches live. I would have gone nuts and this way I was able to do the double row of edging.

I must admit, I am very pleased with the final result. I hope the person it is intended for will feel the same way.

Pattern 7 from Let's Knit 12

Hi, I'm fbz, I'm new here and I have a quick question. If anyone has Let's Knit 12 and perhaps can understand the yardage requirements and/or needle size, gauge, etc., I am going to attempt to swatch for pattern 7 (shown above). I received yesterday both Let's Knit 12 and Let's Knit Start Series Mittens/Gloves (which is amazing by the way, it is pictorially very clear if you are interested in basic beginner glove construction). I don't speak or read Japanese, but I would love to learn. Thanks for any and all tips on the gauge and needle and yarn requirements for pattern 7. It does look quite a bit like the scale lace pattern of Pomatomus, but I am also eager to swatch the border to see how it looks.

edited to add the yarn requirement section of the pattern (click for large view):


Cheers from Berlin, Germany,
fabienne

Japanese scarf - Episode 2 - D

Finally finished all A, B and C segments.

(If you read this and feel like not quite understanding what's all this about, you might want to check this post first.)

We are ready for the first D. Pick up 31 stitches along the C. I've switched again to a different colour - otherwise just keep knitting with the same yarn.

Fig. 1 - Ready to start Row 1

Work in pattern. D is a sequence of short rows. In order to avoid the holes at the end of these rows I've used the YO short row method. Every time you encounter a circle symbol in the chart, just make a YO, then ignore them on the next row.

Fig. 2 - Beginning Row 5 with an YO (RS)

After row 16, I ended up with 3 YOs on each side, marked by pins.

In the last two rows (15 and 16) you will have to work the YOs together with the next stitch. This will close the gaps.

Next, remove the provisional cast-on at the end of C - recover the live stitches and knit until you reach the border with B.

Pick up 31 stitches along B and make another D.

Carry on like this - knitting along the edges and filling all required D segments.

Cast off and voila. One tinny colourful scarf :).

I left out the crochet border out of two reasons: one is that I can't crochet, the other is that I feel I had enough of this scarf :).

It was entertaining and I should not forget to say THANK YOU Judith and May for helping with the translation and THANK YOU Joan for explaining the circle.

What else did I do apart from knitting?

Well, we've had a brilliant day today so we've just tried to make the most out of it, by going for a long walk along the reservoirs in Marsden, in West Yorkshire, the very heart of the Rowan empire.

What you get in return is Autumn at its best.

Japanse scarf - Episode 1 - ABC

We recently had an interesting discussion on the group, about this scarf construction, and no way could I understand it unless actually knitting the bloody thing.

Let's start with the beginning. This is the scarf. Picture courtesy of Rochelle.

The pattern is published in the Let's knit Series #3; the links to the book, both for YesAsia and Amazon Japan, are published on the right side of the KAL main page - just scroll down a bit and you'll see them.

The scarf has an amazing architecture and it's meant to be done in one go - if you feel you need to break off the yarn between segments be sure you're doing something wrong !

Step 1. First segment, which is called A.

I've started with a provisional cast-on which is not in the chart by the way. At the time I thought I'm smarter then the designer - realised later it was not the case. Anyway - it's not crucial - both ways you'll be fine.

No challenge afterwards, just work in pattern.

I broke off the yarn when I finished the casting off row and that's only because I was changing the colours. Otherwise just carry on using the same yarn.

Step 2. Starting the second segment - B

Pick up 31 stitches from the left edge of A and carry on with the B segment chart. (Or pick up 30 and use the last loop of your cast off). Just make sure you've got 31 stitches.

I always slip the first stitch of each row so I had exactly 31 stitches along the edge.

And, by the way, the segments stitch patterns are identical.

If everything goes according to the plan, one hour later you'll be the proud owner of two segments : A and B.

You might notice I've broken off the yarn again - Only because I'm using a different colour next !

Otherwise leave it there and move towards the next step.

Step 3. Starting C

Start with a provisional crochet chain cast on. This will give you 31 loops on your left needle. Carry on using the same yarn ! and knit the first RS row. Now you've got B and C linked together at the bottom (see bellow). It's where I've got that knot between yellow and blue.

Knit the WS and turn. You are here.

Step 4 - Linking the C and B again.

Before beginning Row 3, transfer the SECOND stitch from the bottom from the B edge, on your left needle.

Begin the third row working the k2tog : the blue stitch and the yellow stitch, then just work in pattern for Row 3 and Row 4.

Getting ready to start Row 5 now.

Again - transfer the next edge stitch on your left needle and start with a k2tog.

Carry on like this - making sure to link the parts together with these k2togs, at the beginning of each RS row, picking up every single stitch from the B cast-off edge.

That's all. Next is another B, then another C and so on - till you reach the end of the pattern chart.

And then again, after finishing the last C - do not break off the yarn but move to the next step - The Ds.

This is to come in the next episode : maybe tomorrow.

Understanding The Rising Sun

Weekend exercise - let's see what we make out of this combination.

1. Stitch no. 3 merges into stitch no. 2, so this will be a decrease. Stitch no 2 is the longest one, so it's a LEFT leaning decrease. Looks like a right leaning decrease but it's NOT. Just watch for the longest line.

2. Stitch no 1 and the decrease are crossing each other - this means we are dealing with a cable.

3. The first stitch has that small horizontal line underneath, which means Purl.

So, in real life that's what we've got to do:

-Drop stitch no 1 at the back, on a cable needle

- Slip, knit, pass over

- Yarn over

- Purl the stitch from the cable needle.

Was this easy or what?

I found this symbol on fleegle's blog here:

http://fleeglesblog.blogspot.%20com/2007/03/little-lesson-in-japanese-knitting.html

I thought it was very well explained (I specially enjoyed the Rising Sun story :)) - if you want to understand more about Japanese knitting symbols make sure you don't miss it.

FO: #11 - No. 3 Shawl

Finally finished, wet and currently being blocked. Notice anything different?

Yes, the edging. This is one huge shawl as it stands 200 x 103 cm , and I don't really like the original edging anyway. So I stopped after Row 166 and knitted the traditional scalloped edging.

My thoughts on knitting this shawl:

1. It's easier on my eyes, copy & enlarge the charts. I marked the row numbers after Row 49 all the way to 145.
2. Beware of K2tog's & SSK's on chart 2, especially row 43 & 45. I have made a number of errors, although I managed to fix them without having to rip out stitches.
3. While knitting, be sure that you could knit without being disturbed. Row counter & life line certainly would help. Since I did not use life line. there were times I feared that I might have to frog the whole thing.

As my next project (for work) will take me to York, England starting Oct. 6 for 5 weeks, return to Canada for 1 week and then back to York again for 5 and a half weeks for the remainder of the year, as well as other obligations, I will not be knitting any Japanese design till around Xmas time.

However, I will check e-mails and visit this KAL daily so that I would feel I still belong.

Japanese knitting

Sometimes I just wonder: was all this Japanese Knitting too much for some of us to digest?